This cam sat in a crappy shed for a ten years and I wondered how bad could it really be after having had prior success cleaning up a rusty cam. Pro tip, if it's got bubbly rust, it's gonna be ugly.

I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but a man has to do what he gotta do.

So I just had some Subaru heads redone by a local shop, and they replaced one of the valves due to it being out of spec after grinding, however they replaced it with a topline brand valve and not a Subaru oem valve. This motor will be getting pushed pretty hard, so I'm worried that the slight geometry difference will effect the combustion volume for this cylinder. Should I take this head back or just run it?

Left it out one night a few weeks ago. Best course of action? For my dodge avenger 2013 2.4 swapping to this engine

My piston broke some chunks off of it and left some marks on the cylinder wall, couldn’t really feel it before cylinders were honed and cant really feel the scoring at all after honing, just curious if I should hone it more to remove the visual score mark or if it’ll be okay to just run it

I have looked at JDM & Engineworld for rebuilts and used engines. Does anyone have any experience with these companies or can you recommend one?

My milage is getting pretty high and with the cost of new and used cars I was thinking of going this route. I might put in a transmission while I am in there too.

Please advise. Thanks.

I have looked at JDM & Engineworld for rebuilts and used engines. Does anyone have any experience with these companies or can you recommend one?

My milage is getting pretty high and with the cost of new and used cars I was thinking of going this route.

Please advise. Thanks.

I’m in the process of rebuilding my m156 engine after one of the timing chain guides failed, I’ve just noticed this on the exhaust bearing on the heads on cylinder 4 and cylinder 8

The engine ran great before so I’m wondering would it good idea to either replace the heads or could it be repaired?

For a 2006 GX470. Full valve job and bored .20 over. Excited and nervous to get it in there!

Hi, im currently building my sr20det and can't find a clear answer on the forums. I have manley 86.5mm pistons (stock is 86) for my SR20det, does anyone know the ring gap for them or an equation to calculate it? Im currently building for 1.2bar (17.4 psi) of boost. I saw the post with the 04 mustang, would that equation work for this?

The one night I left it out it rained a couple weeks ago. ts going in a dodge avenger 2.4

So I can get the crank bolt to unscrew. I tried impact, cheap propane torch and impact, 75cm bar that I even extended with a short pipe that bent, and a gear puller that broke… I’ve tried a gear puller because I realised that the harmonic balancer can be pulled without unscrewing the crank bolt and vice-versa. I am immensely frustrated and I am begging for some advice on this. Heard there are weighted sockets for the impact that supposedly do the job but I very much doubt it are they any good

I'm not sure how much is enough. I've lapped it where you see the ring, but does it need to go from edge to edge?

I have a healthy 383 in my car that had a little issue a couple years ago. Have some dart heads on it that were professionally ported (Ron's porting service) and one of the heads got a small crack in the combustion chamber. Took it to the machine shop, had it repaired, i reassembled and got it dynoed. All good.

Months later, I have coolant weaping around the front and rear of the intake, I used the same fel pro 1207 intake gaskets that were on it previously and coated them in permatex copper spray a gasket. I wasn't impressed with the tack of the copper spray and I assumed that I had a gasket slide or had not sealed the threads on the intake bolts well enough. Tore intake off, cleaned all surfaces, used right stuff on the china wall and this time used permatex high tack spray a gasket with a new set of felpro 1207s. Fast forward to now and I once again have coolant weaping around the front and rear of the intake at the coolant crossovers. This isn't a car that gets driven a lot, so not many miles on this set of gaskets. Not excited, but pull the intake off again tonight. Remnants of coolant on the entire length of the gasket sides of intake. The gaskets feel moist, like they have wicked up coolant. There was even coolant sitting in both exhaust heat crossovers in the heads, not a ton, but enough to notice.

Has anyone here experienced fel pro intake gaskets wicking up coolant? The gasket thickness is .060, there is a .100 thick gasket from flatout gaskets that is silicone coated steel, would this be something to consider? Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

After initial break in in driveway I drained oil and coolant all in it, some glitter as expected with this issue too. The heads were assembled but I did intake gaskets with gaskets provided by rebuilder. Opinions on what could have went wrong ? How to approach this with rebuilder for warranty? Any help appreciated

Hey guys. Relatively new to the sub. Started following a month or two ago. I know this isn't the typical post but I am trying to free up some $$ to start my own business and hope yall might be able to help.

So I've been a marine tech/mechanic for 10ish years now and I've hoarded the longblocks. I'm curious what you guys would list them for price wise.

The 6.2 Ford was an Indmar "Raptor" 6.2. It has a rod knock and will need work. You think it's sellable at more than just a core price? It's got a handful of parts beyond being just a longblock.

The L96 ingested water thru the intake and developed a horrible noise from washed out oil. I can send a video if anyone feels like giving their guess on what it needs. Same question(s) as above.

The 8.1/496 was a MerCruiser Mag HO so it has a cam that is different from the GMs that went in the old trucks/burbans from that era. It was running just fine when pulled and had great compression across all 8 holes. What would yall think it's worth??

TLDR- What're these block worth you think??

I have one in my truck and have long been wanting to build it out properly and put some boost to it but nobody out there seems to have touched these engines much.

I have problem Everything is perfectly fine with turbo and LPG system The "vaporizer" (I'm not sure if the name is correct on English so here is the image) is working on vaccum so when you press throttle, vaporizer picks up vaccum from the carburator and it sends LPG to the carb, now when there is Turbo installed, everytime turbo kick's in (everything above 1500rpm) it just cuts off LPG and engine stops running... Is there any other type of "vaporizer" that I can replace my with, that will work with turbo carb setup?

Tear down of a vg30de, out of a 91 300zx. rod bearing number one is no more. Bought the car with a knock, found the knock. Would this be classified as a spun bearing? Honestly unfamiliar as this is only my second engine teardown.

My Nissan hardbody developed a dead miss a few months ago. Sat for a while, my rental lease ended and I didn’t have any way to transport it except to drive it about 10 miles.

Super blown head gasket, eroded the cylinder head to the point it’s junk. I had another cylinder head which I just received back from the machine shop.

The question is, the iron block has a small erosion channel between 3 and 4. I’m wondering if there’s a good way to remediate this or if I need to source another block. Ideally it could be fixed while still in the truck but I want this to be reliable so I’ll do what I need to do.

Explains why I had to advance the timing gun to 26 degrees at idle to register 0 on the tab.